Leth Grüner Veltliner “Steinagrund” 2014
A richer, creamier style of Grüner from ancient soils.
Uplifted apple and mineral aromas, turning to richer notes of lychee, prickly pear, sweet blossom, and a white pepper note that blooms with a bit of air. Lemon-lime coated rock, nectarine and white pepper blast on the palate. Delicious.
Franz Leth’s 80-acre estate, just west of Vienna along the Danube River, is the source of some fantastic Grüner values. Their “Steinagrund” bottling (basically “stone ground”) is sourced from terraced hillsides heavy with ancient gravelly riverbed covered with loess (a German word indicating windblown clay and calcareous silt, pronounced something like “luss”). Deeper loess soils, retaining more water and nutrients, produce broad shouldered, creamier, and fruitier Grüners than, say, the laser-focused wines of the Wachau and Kamptal that we offered a few months ago.